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The
area of El Haiz, about 30 miles southwest of El Bawiti
in the Bahariya
Oasis, is an interesting area and promises to reveal much
about the Romans in Egypt, as well as Egypt's conversion to
Christianity. The area was apparently investigated by Fakhry
during the 1940s, and more recently surveyed by
Dr. Zahi Hawass, who is now the director of Egypt's Supreme
Council of Antiquities (SCA). In part II of our series on the
Bahariya Oasis, we will explore the ruins at El Haiz around Ain
el-Rees, the largest of four local springs in the area. El Haiz
marks the limit of the Giza governorate and the beginning of the
New Valley. It is the last of the major oasis between Bahariya
and the Farafra
Oasis. In this area are located a Roman fortress and palace,
a wine factory, a Coptic basilica as well as several
cemeteries.
However, I would like to point out that visitors to the area
may not easily explore all of these structures at this point in
time. Organized tours to the area that specifically have
arrangements to visit these ruins are probably the tourist's
best chance to visit the sites. Otherwise, it will take some
effort and time for an individual to arrange a tour, for
example, to the basilica. The area is basically guarded by
locals, so one may not even approach the outside of some of
these ruins without formal permission.
The Roman Fortress
The
Roman fortress is probably the most prominent ruins at Ain
el-Rees. Two of its ancient walls still rise above a sandy hill
that overlooks the modern village (if it can be called a
village). As with most of the structures in the area, including
many of the more modern ones, the fortress was mostly built of
mudbrick, and apparently served as a large garrison. In fact,
this is the largest of any Roman fortresses found in the Western
Oasis and it probably housed a large contingent of soldiers, as
well as local rulers in order to protect Egypt from desert
attacks, as well as securing the well established trade routes
through this region. Near the fortress is a cemetery that acted
as the military counterpoint to the one closer to El Bawiti that
we now call the Valley of the Golden Mummies.
The Roman Palace
One
reason we believe that the Roman Fortress was a very important
garrison is because of the size of a nearby structure covering
some four acres of land which is believed to be a Roman palace.
In fact, Dr. Hawass tells us that it is probably the largest
Roman palace ever discovered in Egypt! It consists of a maze of
mudbrick walls surrounded by an enclosure wall. While excavation
is not nearly complete, we know that many of the walls of the
palace were covered on both sides with plaster and painted with
hunting scenes and various colored plants. There were also a row
of columns also painted with scenes. This palace residence is
believed to have been the home of the local Roman ruler.
The Wine Factory
It
seems that wine has always been produced around the Bahariya
Oasis. Though no longer an official export of the Oasis, it
continues to be produced in smaller quantities, but in ancient
times, the local wines were well known and ancient inscriptions
in various parts of Egypt make reference to Bahariya wine. In
fact, this trade was probably responsible for the accumulation
of wealth that allowed residence of the oasis to be buried in
gilded gold coffins. In fact, during the Greco-Roman
Period, wine from the Bahariya Oasis was considered one of the
best wines in all of Egypt.
In
1988, a wine factory was discovered just west of the Roman
fortress very near the palace at the Ain el-Rees spring in El
Haiz. It was a particularly important discovery because this is
the first ancient winde factory that has been unearthed in the
oasis. This particular wine factory would have most likely
specifically served the needs of the Romans garrisoned in the
fortress, as well as the local administrators at the palace. It,
like the other local ruins, dates to the Roman period.
Most of the building's architectural elements have been
uncovered, though there were excavation problems on its west
side. The layout of the structure is not unlike ancient Roman
baths, and the existence of hot springs directly beneath the
area add to the possibility that parts of the structure was also
a bathhouse. The structure consisted of mudbrick walls mounted
upon a foundation cut into the local sandstone. The walls were
then covered in a
thick layer of plaster, probably meant to prevent the grapejuice
from soaking into the walls during fermentation.
The largest room in this complex, located in the northwest
corner of the building, was probably the location used to
receive, clean and sort the grape crops prior to processing.
There are apparently a number of small processing rooms. The
first one discovered was about twelve feet square with two feet
thick walls of approximately ten feet in height. In the center
of the room was a depression where the grapes were probably
pressed and the surrounding floor is sloped in order to allow
the juice to flow out. From here, the wine was probably carried
through a narrow channel into a collector basin. Though the
structure is far from being completely excavated, evidence
suggests that the juice was transported to three different
basins where different types of wine were produced. One of the
basins contained the ashes of burned plants, perhaps indicating
that the type of wine produced in it must have been fermented by
heating.
The Basilica
Near the fortress, Fakhry also found the remains of a Coptic
church built in a classical basilica style. Built of mudbrick,
with whitewashed walls covered in a sort of solidifying mud and
straw,
it has two levels connected by staircases and was probably built
at the end of the 5th Century AD. The walls originally had
paintings, but none survive today.
The floor plan of the church is very similar to many modern
cathedrals. The main entrance to the church leads into a foyer
with alcoves carved into the walls where icons where probably
once mounted. Within, a series of arches is similar to Byzantine
architecture runs along the central sancturary. A staircase to
each side of the narthex communicated with balconies that
offered a view of both the sanctuary, and the valley below. A
well surrounded by a circle of stones may still be found very
near the church and is still in use by local residents.
Beside
this basilica, Fakhry also found the remains of a much older
building that he believed was a place of Christian worship,
perhaps built even before the legalization of Christianity by
the Romans. Unfortunately, nothing remains of these ruins today,
though Fakhry tells us of crude paintings found of a bearded
Christ and a large cross in the center with a depiction of
either the head of Christ or a saint.
The ruins at El Haiz have much yet to reveal to us, and having
explored the area to some degree, I can say that it is entirely
possible that other ruins may yet be discovered. Historically,
this area may prove very useful, because of its desolate
location in the western desert and the possibility that it may
reveal much about the late Greek period, and particularly the
Roman era with its conversion to Christianity
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