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Aswan City
Aswan, Egypt's sunniest southern city and ancient frontier town
located about 81 miles south of Luxor, has a distinctively
African atmosphere. Its ancient Egyptian name was Syene. Small
enough to walk around and graced with the most beautiful setting
on the Nile, the pace of life is slow and relaxing. Days can be
spent strolling up and down the broad Corniche watching the
sailboats etch the sky with their tall masts or sitting in
floating restaurants listening to Nubian music and eating
freshly caught fish.
In Aswan the Nile is at its most beautiful, flowing through
amber desert and granite rocks, round emerald islands covered in
palm groves and tropical plants. Explore the souk, full of the
scent and color of spices, perfumes, scarves and baskets. View
the spectacular sunsets while having tea on the terrace of the
Old Cataract Hotel (Named due to the location of the Nile's
first cataract located here). Aswan has been a favorite winter
resort since the beginning of the nineteenth century, and it's
still a perfect place to get away from it all.
Every night Nubian dancers and musicians perform in the Cultural
Center, just off the Corniche. Folklore troupes recreate scenes
from village life and perform the famous Nubian mock stick-fight
dances.
Dancers at the Cultural Center
Aswan is a strategic location which currently houses a garrison
of the Egyptian army, but which has also seen ancient Egyptian
garrisons, as well as that of General Kitchener, Turkish troops
of the Ottoman empire and the Romans.
The city proper lies on the east bank of the Nile. Relax here,
visit a few mosques, but then prepare for an adventure. The
bazaar runs along the Corniche, which continues past the Ferial
Gardens and the Nubian Museum, and continues on to the Cemetery,
with its forest of cupolas surmounted tombs from the Fatimid
period. Just east of the cemetery in the famous area quarries is
the gigantic Unfinished Obelisk. Just to the south of this, two
Graeco-Roman sarcophagi and an unfinished colossus remain half
buried in the sand.
The most obvious is Elephantine Island, which is timeless with
artifacts dating from pre-Dynastic times onward. It is the
largest island in the area. Just beyond Elephantine is
Kitchener's Island (Geziret el-Nabatat). It was named for the
British general Haratio Kitchener (185--1916) and was sent to
Egypt in 1883 to reorganize the Egyptian army, which he then led
against the Sudanese Mahdi. But the island is known for its
garden and the exotic plants the Kitchener planted there, and
which continue to flourish today.
On the opposite shore (west bank), the cliffs are surmounted by
the tomb of a marabut, Qubbet el-Hawwa, who was a local saint.
Below are tombs of the local (pharaonic) nobles and dignitaries.
Upriver a bit is the tomb of Mohammed Shah Aga Khan who died in
1957. Known as the Tomb of the Aga Khan, it is beautiful in its
simplicity. A road from there leads back to the Coptic Monastery
of St Simeon, which was built in the sixth century in honor of
Amba Hadra, a local saint.
Just up river a bit, there is also the old Aswan dam, built by
the British, which was enlarged, expanded, but unable to control
the Nile for irrigation.
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